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3/19/2023

Curly and Coily Hair: Dermatologist Tips on How to Take Care of It

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Image by fizkes via Shutterstock
​Many find it overwhelming to care for curly or coily hair because it requires extra care to keep it looking healthy. It can often be more fragile and prone to breakage. Since everyone's hair is different, it requires trial and error to find the products and care routine that is right for you. Read on to learn some tips on caring for curly and coily hair to keep it looking beautiful.
Key takeaways:
  • Genetics controls the shape of the hair follicles, which determines whether the hair will be curly or straight.
  • Curly and coily hair can be more dry, fragile, and prone to breakage requiring special care.
  • Use shampoos and conditioners specially designed for curly or coily hair to keep it adequately moisturized.
  • Proper care routines will keep your hair looking shiny and healthy, such as using detanglers, leave-in conditioners, hair masks, and heat-protecting products.
  • It is also important to protect curly and coily hair while sleeping and when outside.
Different hair types

There are four different hair types:
  1. Straight
  2. Wavy
  3. Curly
  4. Coily

The shape of the follicle determines the type of hair you will have. If the follicle is growing completely straight and the follicle is round, your hair will be straight.

Curly and coily hair has an "s" shaped oval follicle. It also has many disulfide bonds within the hair shaft that keep it curly or coily. This shape of the follicle makes it more prone to dryness and breakage.

Factors controlling the appearance of your hair

Other things determine the appearance of your hair, such as structure, density, and porosity.
  • Structure. The structure of the hair refers to whether it is thin, fine, or thick, coarse hair. Curly and coily hair tends to be thicker.
  • Density. The density will determine how much hair you have. Curly and coily hair tends to have lower density.
  • Porosity. This refers to the amount of moisture your hair can absorb. If you have high porosity (curly or coily hair) and many openings in the cuticle of your hair, your hair will dry out easily and require extra moisture to keep it healthy.

Expert haircare tips for curly & coily hair:

Genetics ultimately determines what type of hair we will have and its characteristics. Many try to straighten their hair, but it is only a temporary change because you cannot change your genetic code with a simple salon treatment. Evolutionarily, curly and coily hair has the advantage of being more protective of the scalp and better at thermoregulation.

How to wash curly or coily hairBecause curly and coily hair is so fragile, it is critical to only wash it correctly.
  • Frequency. Wash about once a week with a gentle shampoo.
  • Technique. Do not scrub your scalp because that will cause excess oil production and irritate the scalp.
  • Water temperature. Use only use cool water. Hot water can dehydrate your hair.
  • Cleansing. Cleanse with clarifying shampoo every two weeks to remove product build-up.
  • Chemicals. Avoid sulfates and parabens.
  • Specialized products. Use only shampoos specially formulated for curly or coily hair.
  • Pre-shampoo. Consider using a conditioner before shampooing to protect the hair.

Using a conditioner with curly or coily hair

It is critical to use the correct conditioner every time you shampoo to protect and hydrate the hair.
  • Moisturize. Select a moisturizing conditioner specially designed for curly or coily hair.
  • Oils. Look for ingredients like coconut, avocado, or argan oil, which are super-hydrating.
  • Leave-ins. Consider a leave-in conditioner.

How to style curly or coily hair

There are definite dos and don'ts to styling curly or coily hair because it is so fragile.
  • Towel drying. Pat or squeeze the hair dry with a soft towel. Never rub your hair.
  • Prepping. Before combing your hair, apply a detangler.
  • Combing. Only use a wide-tooth comb or your fingers. Never brush wet hair.
  • Protecting. Use a heat-protecting spray with keratin if you must use a hair dryer or hot tools.
  • Air drying. It is best to air-dry your hair. If you must use a hair dryer, use it on the lowest heat for the shortest amount of time. Keep it at least 6 inches from your hair. Diffuser attachments are recommended.
  • Hair masks. Apply a hair mask every two weeks to give your hair extra moisture at night.
  • Trims. Have your hair professionally trimmed every 2–3 months.
  • Styles. Do not use tight braids or ponytails since they can lead to hair loss (traction alopecia).

Overnight tips for curly or coily hair

Because curly and coily hair is delicate, sleeping positions matter.
  • Avoid sleeping on your back because this can damage the hair.
  • Pull your hair up into a loose bun or braid at night.
  • Sleep on silk pillowcases, which will decrease friction and damage to the hair.
  • Apply nourishing oils overnight.
  • Consider sleeping in a silky bonnet to protect your hair at night.

Curly and coily hair requires a lot of care to prevent damage and breakage. It can be daunting for some. Just remember it is dry and fragile and treat it accordingly. With the right routine and nourishing products, you can keep your hair looking healthy and lustrous. If you need help, ask your dermatologist.
​
FAQ
Do I need to protect my curly or coily hair outside?Curly or coily hair is fragile and prone to damage and subsequent breakage. You need to protect it from pollution and harmful UV ray's from the sun that can damage it. Wear a wide-brimmed hat during the day to cover and protect your hair. As a bonus, it will protect parts of your face from the sun also.

Is diet important for curly or coily hair?
A healthy body will produce healthy hair. Your diet should consist of antioxidant-rich fruits and vegetables and good lean proteins. Avoid smoking and excess alcohol.
Resources:
  1. Proceedings of the Royal Society A Mathemathical, Physical, and Engineering Sciences. The what, why and how of curly hair: a review.
  2. Journal of Investigative Dermatology Symposium Proceedings. Healthy hair: what is it?
  3. Journal of Investigative Dermatology. Understanding curly hair mechanics: fiber strength.
  4. Experimental Dermatology. The biology and genetics of curly hair.
  5. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. Hair shape of curly hair.
from HealthNews

3/14/2023

So, What Exactly Is Demipermanent Hair Color?

No, they didn’t just spell "semipermanent" wrong.
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Changing your hair color is a surefire way to feel different and fresh. Unless… the color is bad. That new copper hair trend that looks so cute on TikTok isn’t looking as cute on you — and now you’re stuck with it, right?

If you used a permanent hair dye, yes. It’ll take a lot of tinting and color correction to get you back to a good spot. You have to add green or blue to neutralize the copper — it’s a whole thing. The process could take months and your hair will be fighting for its life by the time you’re through.

Now imagine you used a demipermanent color instead. Rather than trying to neutralize the orange or using ammonia on already bleached hair, that copper color will simply fade away after 24-ish washes. Demipermanent hair color is like semipermanent dye’s cousin that has a bit more staying power. While semipermanent color washes out within a few washes, and permanent color never truly leaves, hairstylist Larry Sims says demipermanent color lasts up to 30 washes, if you’re cool with forgoing super hot showers. Plus, demipermanent dyes don’t contain ammonia, so they won’t damage or permanently alter your hair the way a permanent dye will.

It’s the perfect hair-color solution for commitment-phobes, color lovers, and people who frequently proclaim, "I just wanted a change!" — and we should be talking about it more. (Because wow, I wish I knew this was a thing when I tried to self-color-correct an auburn, permanent box dye gone wrong and walked around with splotchy green-brown hair for a year.)
Meet the experts:
  • Rex Jimieson is a color educator and colorist at Maxine Salon in Chicago.
  • Larry Sims is a hairstylist in Los Angeles and cofounder of Flawless by Gabrielle Union.
  • Kelly Dobos is a cosmetic chemist and adjunct professor of cosmetic science at the University of Toledo. 

In this story:
  • What is demipermanent hair color?
  • Benefits of using demipermanent hair color
  • How to use demipermanent hair color
  • How to make demipermanent hair color last
  • Expert-approved demipermanent hair colors
What is demipermanent hair color?

Demipermanent hair color is a little more permanent than semipermanent color but less permanent than permanent color. On a scale of "this will never leave your hair" and "washes out instantly," demipermanent falls somewhere in between. 

It all comes down to a little something I haven’t thought much about since high school: chemistry. "There are many different chemistries that can be used to color hair, and the categories have some overlap," explains cosmetic chemist Kelly Dobos. "Permanent dyes involve the penetration of small color molecules into the hair, which are then converted into larger molecules through a chemical reaction. Those larger molecules become embedded in the hair." In other words, they won’t wash out. 

Semipermanent dyes, on the other hand, "rely primarily on diffusion of dye into the hair cuticle," says Dobos. "No chemical reactions involved." The dye molecules aren’t embedded in the hair, which means a semipermanent dye will continue to wash out with each shampoo. 

Demipermanent dyes fall somewhere in between. The magic (er, chemistry) is in the developer. "Developers help open the hair cuticle, allowing dye molecules to penetrate," says Dobos. Depending on the level of developer you use, it can also provide some "lift" or lightening of the hair. "The degree of lift is dependent on the concentration of peroxide in the developer," she continues. "The higher the volume number, the greater the lift." But a low-level developer, like a 10 volume, "allows pigment to deposit with no lift."

Okay, chemistry lesson over. Demipermanent dye uses a low-volume, mild peroxide developer (usually a 10 volume developer) to enable color molecules to penetrate and coat the surface layer of the hair cuticle — and just the surface layer. Because of the low concentration of peroxide, it won’t lighten your hair (good news, it won’t damage it either). So it’s not a great choice if you’re hoping to go blonde, but it is a great option for blending uneven color, adding lowlights, toning dull or brassy blondes, or adding richness and shine to any color. That being said, if you already have very dark hair, you’re definitely limited in what you can do with demipermanent color. In this case, blondes do have more fun.

The low-level developer gives the demipermanent color some staying power (semipermanent dye is typically applied without any developer), but a demipermanent dye job is only expected to last for about 24 washes before that color coating fades away.

Benefits of using demipermanent hair color

Colorist Rex Jimieson says demipermanent color has five major benefits over permanent color: "It has no ammonia, it’s easier to grow out, it adds more shine, it’s easier to change later, and it processes quicker."

No ammonia means demipermanent color won’t damage or dry out your hair the way permanent color will. And curly girls, rejoice: Demipermanent color won’t alter or damage your curl pattern — it’s totally safe for all hair types.

With a demipermanent dye, you’ll still get that obvious "I just dyed my hair" change without the commitment or damage that comes with permanent color. And because that color fades over time, you won’t have to worry about root touch-ups or blending new growth. Your hair should return to its original state after the color washes out entirely. 

"Permanent color needs touching up every three to six weeks to keep up with hair growth," says Jimieson. "While you might get eight or 12 weeks out of your root line with a demipermanent dye" because it will start to fade — thus, be less noticeably different from your roots — as your hair grows out. So it’s a great option if you’re on a budget or can’t make it to the salon every month.

Demipermanent hair color comes in a creme or a liquid — and it can be customized to your color needs. In a liquid state, demipermanent color can be diluted for a more sheer or subtle hue for those who are a bit color shy or looking for a less drastic change. 

How to use demipermanent hair color

Demipermanent hair color can’t lighten your hair, but there are lots of things it can do. Opt for a demipermanent dye if you fall within the below categories:
  • You want to go darker. Demipermanent hair dye can darken your hair by about three shades. But Jimieson recommends sticking within two levels of your natural color, "that way your underlying pigment will support the demi color the best." If you plan to use a demipermanent color regularly, "don’t pull it through the ends every time," he says. "Let nature soften the ends, so you don’t get buildup at the bottom."
  • You want to blend your grays. If you’re less than 50 percent gray, a demipermanent color can blend and tone your gray hair to shine through like natural highlights — it just won’t cover them entirely. "Keep in mind your color will be less opaque,” says Jimieson. “But that's why it grows out better."
  • You want to try a new, bold color. "I use demipermanent dye with high-fade, vibrant colors such as reds, purples, and blues," says Sims. “They’ll lose their vibrancy but fade slowly over time.” If you change your mind or want to try a new color next month, you won’t need to undergo an entire color-correction process.
  • You need a refresh. Demipermanent color can safely be used over the top of permanent color to refresh faded ends or touch up roots without causing further damage.
  • You want to try a new tint. Blondes can use demipermanent colors to try out fun new tints like pink or copper. (This works on darker hair too, but the results are much more subtle.) Most toners fall into the semipermanent category (they wash out really quickly), but you can use demipermanent color as a longer-lasting toner to brighten dull or brassy hair.

Demipermanent dye gives you a little more DIY leeway (if things get a little blotchy, it won’t be as obvious and will eventually fade away), but our experts say you should still head to the salon if you’re looking for a demipermanent change. "Demipermanent color can be used at home if you’re amazing at coloring your own hair," says Sims. "Otherwise, I would leave it up to the professionals."

How to make demipermanent hair color last

Your demipermanent color will wash out eventually — that’s the beauty of it! But you can make it last longer by limiting how often you wash your hair (dry shampoo is your friend) and "use a shampoo line that is color safe," says Jimieson. "Almost anything sold in a salon or prescribed by your colorist or stylist will work." These products are formulated to gently cleanse and condition without stripping the color. 

On the flip side, if you wound up with a color you hate, you don’t have to live with it for long. You can accelerate the fading process of a demipermanent dye by using a clarifying shampoo — just be sure to follow up with a super moisturizing conditioner because clarifying shampoos can be extremely drying.

​from Allure
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3/5/2023

Concerned about damage to skin, hair due to colours during Holi?

Here’s how you can have a safe Holi
This year, Holi falls on March 8, and Holika Dahan falls on March 7.
Holi is all about fun, food, festivities and colour!
But, it can land you in a soup with damaged hair, skin, rashes and breathing problems.
​Courtesy- toxic chemicals present in colours. Health 360 tells you how you can have a safe Holi.

3/4/2023

Here’s an easy DIY rosemary hair growth spray you can make yourself


Easy Rosemary Hair Growth Spray
​

* 10 drops rosemary essential oil
* 1/2 teaspoon of a carrier oil (coconut oil, jojoba oil, or squalane oil)
* 4 ounces distilled water
* 4 ounces spray bottle (amber bottles like this will keep the essential oil potent longer)
* mini funnel (optional but helpful)

Instructions
* Add 10 drops of rosemary essential oil to a 1/2 teaspoon and fill the rest of the teaspoon with a carrier oil.

* Pour your oils into your bottle and fill the rest of the bottle to the top with water. Give your bottle a shake and spray directly into roots and then rub it in with your fingers a bit.

* Spray into hair once a day.

That's it.

from A Beautiful Mess

3/4/2023

Is rosemary hair care's next big micro-trend?

​Rosemary Oil and Hair Growth is all the talk these days.

Last August I included an article in my newsletter under 3 Hair Trends That Will Be Everywhere This Summer about Rosemary Oil for Hair Growth.

Below is the article "Should I Use Rosemary Oil for Hair Growth?" from Healthline.com
​Should I Use Rosemary Oil for Hair Growth?

​Topically applied rosemary oil may help support hair growth and prevent hair loss. But applying too much can cause side effects.

Rosemary essential oil and hair

Rosemary is a culinary and healing herb. This woody perennial is native to the Mediterranean region, where it’s been used as food and medicine for centuries.

Much like oregano, peppermint, and cinnamon, rosemary is frequently found in essential oil form. Essential oils are highly concentrated and distilled extracts of volatile plant compounds. These are used for cooking, cleaning, beauty, health, and other purposes.

Rosemary essential oil is a common variety you can purchase and use as a home remedy. The oil’s health uses range from antioxidant benefits and anti-inflammation to memory enhancement and more.

In recent years, there have been claims that the oil may be great for hair growth. Some say it could even prevent hair loss, pointing to Mediterranean cultures’ use of rosemary in hair rinses to promote hair growth for hundreds of years as supporting evidence.

Can rosemary oil treat hair loss?

​The idea that rosemary oil encourages hair growth may come from the rosemary’s basic health benefits. The plant in essential oil form is said to:
  • have anti-inflammatory properties
  • promote nerve growth
  • improve circulation

Like peppermint essential oil (also used to promote hair growth), rosemary essential oil strengthens circulation. As a result, it could prevent hair follicles from being starved of blood supply, dying off, and leading to hair loss.

Beyond stimulating hair growth, rosemary essential oil is used to prevent premature graying and dandruff. It may also help dry or itchy scalp.

Do studies support the claims?

According to some scientific evidence, rosemary may benefit nerve tissue.

Carnosic acid, an active ingredient in the plant, healed tissue and nerve damage in one study. This ability to heal nerve endings may rejuvenate nerves in the scalp too, in turn possibly restoring hair growth.

More revealing recent studies show that rosemary directly helps protect against hair loss. One 2015 trialTrusted Source pitted the essential oil against minoxidil, commercially known as Rogaine. Both were used on human subjects with androgenetic alopecia (male or female pattern baldness).

Results showed that rosemary essential oil was just as effective a minoxidil. During the process, it helped the side effect of itchy scalp more successfully than minoxidil.

Another studyTrusted Source of rosemary leaf extract (different from the essential oil) showed it stimulated hair growth. This occurred when hair loss was triggered by testosterone (as in pattern baldness). This study was performed on mice, however.

Two separate clinical reviews — one from 2010Trusted Source and one from 2011 — also acknowledge rosemary’s hair growth potential. The former cites a study with successful hair regrowth in people with alopecia who used essential oils. One of these essential oils was rosemary.

In the latter review, rosemary essential oil was described as a hair loss restorative. This was due to its circulation-improving effects.

How should I use rosemary oil for hair loss?

​Here are a few ways to try using rosemary essential oil as a hair restorative and thickener. Try any of these treatments one to two times per week to start out. Use them more often when desired or you’ve become comfortable using them.

1. Massage it directly into your scalpAfter mixing about 5 drops of rosemary essential oil with a teaspoon of carrier oil (like jojoba oil or coconut oil), massage evenly into your scalp after bath or shower. Rinsing out the oil afterward is optional — though if you do rinse, let the oil sit on your scalp for at least 5 to 10 minutes beforehand.

2. Mix it into your shampooThis can also apply to conditioners, lotions, or creams. Play it safe and don’t add too much. Keep to about five drops per ounce of product. Afterward, use the product like usual. You can also add 2 to 3 drops directly to any hair product when you apply a dollop of it on your palm before use.

3. Add it to your own homemade shampooThere are many recipes online for a shampoo base. You can also add essential oils for your preferred health and beauty benefits. These may incorporate a mixture of baking soda, coconut oil, essential oil, and possibly other oils. Try this one at Tiny Apothecary.

What should I know before using rosemary oil?

Avoid getting essential oil in your eyes. If contact occurs, quickly rinse your eyes with cold water.

Likewise, be careful not to apply too much to your scalp. Rosemary essential oil has been known to irritate the skin. It may cause discomfort, but no health dangers. To avoid skin irritation, dilute the oil with a carrier oil or other product before applying it.

Not enough is known about the safety of using rosemary essential oils while pregnant or breastfeeding. Though using the essential oil for hair loss is only done topically, be cautious — its effects in this regard are still unknown.

The bottom line

​Rosemary has been used by many to promote hair growth successfully. Using rosemary essential oil could very well do the same for you.

Science and personal experience together both strongly suggest the essential oil does protect against hair loss, particularly that related to male or female pattern baldness. It may even be effective for alopecia.

Rosemary essential oil is a simple remedy that you can use at home, and it may even be competitive with commercial products. What’s more, it’s quite safe when used correctly and yields very few side effects.

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